2002/2022. Twenty years of the White Show, from a small corner in the Fair in 2001 to the most influential and international independent contemporary fashion show that has reached the goal of more than 500 quality exhibitors. Each time an event not to be missed for the high rate of creativity and that has been able to expand exponentially keeping an eye on the "signs of the time". Let's go over, together with Massimiliano Bizzi, its brilliant inventor, this adventure that took off from Superstudio.
1. How did White become White?
White was born almost by chance, but it is no coincidence that it has become the most important reference show for womenswear in Europe. Behind it there has been a lot of work, study and strategy to be able to evolve from year to year and adapt to the demands of the market and operators.
It is certainly its strongly innovative imprint, Sign of the Times to be precise, that has made White one of the leading events of the fashion week, twice a year.
2. How did you arrive at Superstudio Più, the first experiment of a fair outside the Fair?
Thanks to a great woman who believed in me and in my project: Gisella Borioli. She bet on White even when the alternative was a much stronger and more structured reality.
3. What was crucial to White's success?
Certainly the determination and grit, the desire to create a container for brands that was not debasing and mortifying like the trade fairs of 20 years ago, but on the contrary, captivating and surprising. A perfect place to do business, immersed in a pleasant setting, capable of holding buyers and the press even after working hours.
4. Is this success also thanks to...?
I certainly owe a lot to the team of professionals who have followed one another over the years and who have supported me and my wife Brenda, White's CEO, in the development of our project.
5. The most critical moment?
Probably the one that has just passed.
The pandemic in Italy broke out right at the end of the February 2020 edition and from there there was a moment of considerable uncertainty that made us waver. It wasn't clear how fashion, not just us, could survive this drubbing. Luckily, mutual help and some initiatives such as Milano Loves Italy, Together we are stronger, have lifted the situation and given a new and positive impetus, having opened a new look at the future. A new fashion system has been created, which we hope will continue to collaborate and coordinate to achieve great results, even when this period will be just a bad memory.
We ourselves are putting into the next White a renewed energy that opens us up to new projects and new opportunities.
6. An innovation at one point was also that of opting for a fair spread throughout Via Tortona rather than concentrated in a larger fair institution. The Tortona Fashion District was born. By free choice or by necessity?
A bit of both, perhaps. I've always liked the idea of a widespread fair, I won't deny it. But it was also a necessity. The demand from brands has increased exponentially. From the first edition in which we had 100 brands, we arrived at 550. Consequently, it was necessary to have more space, also to host a series of collateral activities that we have developed over the years.
7. The brand that has given White the most, and the one that White has given the most to?
Probably the original brands, which have followed me since I was just a collaborator for Fiera Milano, believed in me and followed me in this new adventure. I'm talking about brands of the caliber of Collection Privèe, Grevi, Faliero Sarti, Sofie D'hoore, and Roberto Collina, just to name a few.
The brands that White has supported in their growth path are certainly, among others, Uma Wang and Golden Goose, to name a few great international brands that have taken off.
8. The term Fair does not coincide with the reality of White. How would you define it?
In fact, I don't particularly like to use this term, "fair". We are working to make White become a "content show", a business platform full of activities and side events.
9. You are a multitasking "dominus" of undisputed ability and prestige, yet you have wanted other creatives close by. Who are your most important "shoulders" and in what roles?
It's true, I do a bit of everything in the company. I like to coordinate and supervise the various departments because I want everything to be perfect. But yes, I'm definitely surrounded by professionals who, with their work and passion, help me put together everything you see for 20 years now.
The most crucial shoulders? Definitely, the recent purchase we decided to make with Brenda: Stefania Vismara, our general manager.
She has been a breath of fresh air, a great professional who has given and is giving a significant contribution to the development, internationalization and expansion of the show in terms of notoriety.
10. In times of digital, phygital, lockdown and other limitations, how should fashion shows evolve?
I believe that fashion is by its very nature an industry that requires the "physical".
Fashion was born in response to a social need: that of feeling beautiful and good about oneself. It was the occasions, the worldliness, that made fashion an important and integral part of our lives.
And it is for this reason that I firmly believe that fairs will have to find a way and do everything possible to remain in attendance. Except in cases of force majeure, clearly, as in the case of the lockdown, where necessarily the physical had to be supported by the digital. But digital, in my opinion, is just a support, it can never be a substitute.
11. In addition to the canonical "stands", each time different and imaginative, White lives of side events: which are the most successful?
To mention a recent project, certainly "Milano Loves Italy", which has made White an even more widespread event thanks to the possibility given to some brands to exhibit their collections in the best stores in Milan.
I like to count among the most successful events the fashion shows of Uma Wang at Palazzo Reale, Ludovica Amati at Castello Sforzesco, the installation of Antonio Marras at Chiostro del Bramante and the fashion show for the city of Milan by Korean designer Yohanix in Piazza Duomo.
Finally, I remember with great enthusiasm the beautiful musical event organized in September to celebrate the restart that we held in the Garden of Superstudio. On that occasion we hosted the popular Italian singer-songwriter Madame who gave us a unique performance.
12. The world of White is attracting more and more allies and "systems", also intercepting politics and institutions: what are the most significant alliances and opportunities?
The universe of White is studded with many small and large partners with whom we collaborate in order to grow and make a strong contribution to the Italian and European fashion system.
They are mostly institutional partners such as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, the Foreign Trade Institute, Confartigianato, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Camera Showroom Milano and Camera Buyer Italia.
It was certainly an honor for us to receive the patronage of the City of Milan and the Lombardy Region.
It filled us with pride to be recognized as one of the most important events for the city and region during Milan Fashion Week.
13. White is at the forefront in defending the fashion system, attention to the environment and the circular economy. How is this "political" and social position working?
I would say very well, we are proud to be able to give voice and space to realities, people and projects that carry on these battles to make fashion more sustainable. Let's remember that the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry globally and everyone involved in it should work together to reduce its impact on the environment.
As the flagship event of Fashion Week, attended by thousands of visitors at each edition, we felt the responsibility to offer ours as a stage to address issues related to sustainability in the fashion system, from all points of view, so that end consumers could also become aware of the situation and understand how they can do their part.
14. How does White interpret the essential theme of sustainability?
On this subject, WSM, our project dedicated to sustainability in the fashion supply chain, is absolutely one of the most significant events on a global level in terms of fashion sustainability. I would like to take this opportunity to remind you that from this edition WSM will be held on the same dates as White, from February 24 to 27 at the Visconti Pavilion, and will be open to the city of Milan.
15. Made in Italy and international openness: how do you understand and reconcile them?
Actually, I think it is easy to reconcile them. I think it is important to host an increasing number of international buyers to give great visibility to our Made in Italy excellence.
Moreover, we do not exclude exporting our format to international markets ready to welcome us.
16. Young talents and established brands, cultural installations and fashion show-events, sophisticated proposals and street market: how do they coexist in a single container?
I think it is normal to mix all these elements.
It is certainly a source of pride to be able to host big names in fashion, just as it is right to give space to emerging designers and brands that bring a breath of fresh air and innovation to each edition.
Finally, the installations and collateral events make White a 360° platform: excellent opportunities for business, marketing and communication, events, art and lifestyle.
17. The Municipality of Milan "married" this event early on, much more than many other similar ones with a particular public-private synergy. How did this alliance come about?
It was born out of the great work we have done over the years with the city council, always finding ourselves aligned with the projects of the fashion department, which has recognized White as an excellence for the city.
18. What does your latest project Sign of the Times tell us?
From the title of a famous Prince song, Sign of the Times means accepting the changing times and wanting to be part of them, through new initiatives and revolutionary ideas that give voice to the dreams and expectations of the new generations.
The world requires a new vision, a new point of view, to rethink together a new era of fashion, gentler and less hectic, for the individual and for the environment, through a new team approach that makes us protagonists of the market.
I strongly believe in these values and this is why we decided to make Sign of the Times the pay-off of White.
19. Cherchez-la-femme. How much do you owe to your wife Brenda?
Definitely, a lot. Brenda has been my rock for all these years. I am a creative, free-thinking, dreamer; she is my rational and pragmatic side in the company. She is the one who makes many of my ideas possible. Not surprisingly, she is the CEO of our company with a concrete vision for our business.
20. The 20th anniversary often marks the year of a milestone and a turning point. Does this also apply to White?
Twenty years is a great achievement, there's no doubt about it. But we still want to do a lot more and that's why we'll never consider this milestone as a point of arrival.
We want to continue to grow and evolve, internationalize and become more and more rooted.
Every edition is a turning point for us and it will certainly be the same in February 2022.
You'll see!