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29/09/2020 | EDITORIAL

NO CLONE-MODELS YES WOMEN-MODELS

Posted by: Gisella Borioli

The Fashion Week just ended in Milan, between phigital events, royal fashion shows and digital fashion shows, more than new clothes (everything is now permissible) has brought another idea of beauty. Identity went on the stage rather than aesthetics: "real" women in place of approved models. Another positive message in the year that inaugurates the decade that already sees many women in the foreground in key positions.

If there is a general observation that I could make after the brave Milan Fashion Week which lined up real, digital, virtual, essential, spectacular, classic, reinvented, filmed fashion shows - all interesting although a little cold unfortunately due to a lack of human warmth kisses initial thoughts and rock applause - it is not so much the variety of all kinds proposals (to what we are used to) but the change of models called to present them. More ethical than aesthetic choice...

The Fashion Week just ended in Milan, between phigital events, royal fashion shows and digital fashion shows, more than new clothes (everything is now permissible) has brought another idea of beauty. Identity went on the stage rather than aesthetics: "real" women in place of approved models. Another positive message in the year that inaugurates the decade that already sees many women in the foreground in key positions.

If there is a general observation that I could make after the brave Milan Fashion Week which lined up real, digital, virtual, essential, spectacular, classic, reinvented, filmed fashion shows - all interesting although a little cold unfortunately due to a lack of human warmth kisses initial thoughts and rock applause - it is not so much the variety of all kinds proposals (to what we are used to) but the change of models called to present them. More ethical than aesthetic choice.
Fewer and fewer super skinny, very blond, extremely pale, so similar girls from the East of recent years, here come Women, not the sidereal beauty  supermodels, ‘80s/’90s real stars, but girls different in personality, height, skin color, origin, culture , make-up and hairstyle and even silhouette, allowing curvy and supercurvy the satisfaction of the catwalk.
The whole world is cheerfully in the same carrousel, with a multiracial vision of the future that achieves in a moment everything that planet governments would like but are unable to do.
Here are five examples that allow everyone to verify the message, still clickable online.
The cast of Giorgio Armani to present his Emporio on video is made up of actress, actors, dancers,  rappers, DJs and other beautiful interesting faces left natural, and obviously regardless of race, who choreographically move in his headquarters of via Bergognone made similar to a metaphysical building with dreamlike final sunset.
Versace also appears on computers and smartphones, as well as in presence for its employees that have made those slinky dresses. The seductive mermaids imagined in a landscape of the abyss, a fantastic Versacepolis, escape the rules of beauty codified by the brand and accompany equally heroic, strong, colorful men. When the two mythological black creatures decidedly overweight according to our standards parade, it is the confirmation that the homologation is over, and diversity finally wins.
Message even more supported by Valentino, where Pierpaolo Piccioli for the first time of the brand in Milan, with an international casting, chose different, eccentric and individualistic girls as are seen in all metropolis. And it doesn't matter if one is shorter, fatter, less beautiful for someone or has green hair. Better yet, to represent a sample of humanity. It is the triumph of woman with her imperfections, her complex and varied personality that finds in the act of wearing a magical dress a gratification moment that’s rightfully hers.
Even Massimo Giorgetti for MSGM collection works on identity: not models but twelve real women, artists, designers, activists, who portray themselves with selfies choosing and wearing urbanwear garments of the collection in their own way and showing themselves on Instagram and other social netwoks, giving evidence with words what is the collective snapshot of a generation.
Because, as Massimo Giorgetti explained, «Difficulties of recent months have become a unique opportunity to imagine new ways, experiment with new strategies, embrace the challenge of sustainability. But above all to tell stories, to create conversations around fashion, beyond fashion».
Jeremy Scott is a counterpoints for Moschino with his usual intelligence and irony. For his digital audience he comes on stage with an amazing little fashion theater: an "old-fashioned" miniature fashion show, in which models and audience are marionette that faithfully reproduce top-models and beautiful people very well-known to fashion-addicts. A small start with a big idea.

Versace Spring-Summer Collection 2021
Valentino Spring-Summer Collection 2021
MSGM Spring-Summer Collection 2021
Moschino Spring-Summer Collection 2021

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