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25/02/2026 | FASHION, MILAN FASHION WEEK

DIESEL PLAYGROUND

Posted by: Camilla Golzi Saporiti

Diesel throws open Milan Fashion Week with a show at Superstudio Maxi that upends the rulebook, tramples convention and sweeps away any trace of haute couture hauteur. Models, clad in the new Autumn-Winter 2026/2027 collection, are quite literally launched onto a runway heaving with objects: toys, plushies, design pieces, sex toys, accessories and vintage relics - think Nineties VHS tapes, sombreros, condoms, balloons, inflatable dolls and just about anything else you can imagine. Fifty thousand objects drawn from some 6.000 different categories. The mise-en-scène makes the message unmistakable: anything goes. Chaos is welcome. Lights blaze. The soundtrack pounds. The stands are packed, phones raised high to capture the spectacle. A sweatshirt dress thrown over electric-blue tights. Lingerie-effect slips toughened up with denim jackets. Cropped tops and jackets cut to the navel or higher. And then the gilet, already spotted in London and New York, emerges as the show’s breakout star. Reworked with a pop sensibility, it sheds its classical connotations and embraces irreverent originality: tie-dye denim, technicolour shearling, eco-fur iterations. Here, the gilet becomes the emblem of a wardrobe that is versatile, exuberant and unapologetically saturated in colour, a collection that radiates joy and feels so disarmingly fun it already has you thinking about the next party. Or the next catwalk.

Thousands of archival pieces from Diesel’s history form the backdrop to the fantastical show that opened Fashion Week
Glenn Martens, Creative Director

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