Are the worlds of design, fashion and beauty increasingly close? This is the sense of the interview made by Lisa Dansi for the cosmetics magazine Cosmopolo to Gisella Borioli, who has something to say about the subject given her background as director of major fashion magazines, art-director for design events and observer of changes of the image company.
What has changed in the world of design from the 70s/80s to today? What were the imperatives of that time and what are the present ones?
The 70s led us into modernity, into the industrial design wherether search for form and function began to combine with provocation and experimentation. The evolution of society (contestation, politicization, speedup, sexual liberation and divorce) leads to a change that is reflected in life choices and design. The Made in Italy asserts itself. These are the years of the avant-garde, Archizoom, Superstudio, Alchimia that subvert all the rules and prelude to the arrival of Memphis and of the eccentric, colorful, imaginative 80s that will influence furniture, houses, fashion. Given the vent to fantasy, the movements, the trends, the styles follow each other and overlap, mixing minimalism, decorativism, industrialism, individualism, neoclassicism and kitsch-chic, Ikea and art-design. Houses become increasingly individualist, the architect’s choices contaminate with memories of travel, craft pieces, ethnic pieces, vintage, collectibles, objects that tell a story. Today? Today design is a global phenomenon, with all the countries of the world to compete with the Italian production. The offer has widened enormously and is now accessible on thousands of channels, single-brand and sophisticated shops, concept-stores, galleries, outlets, shopping malls and low-cost warehouses, the Internet. Design has become fashionable, democratic, total and open to everyone. Today, even pots, toothbrush or plastic sandals convey are status-symbols signed by archistars.
The relationship between fashion and design is very strong, as that between design/fashion/beauty. How does one influence the other?
It is as if the creative industry is in a continuous flow between disciplines and markets. There are fashion designers who also make furniture and create lines of beauty, as taught by Armani. Designer and architects who switch from buildings to objects and accessories, creative directos who indicate trends and the colors that then will influence all aesthetic choices of that period. Everyone feed on the same stimuli: social and cultural phenomenon, art, cinema, music, trends, socials, returns and anticipations. Nowadays, the ideas of protecting the environment and sustainability, the attention to young people and to diversity are very strong. And many choices will take i tinto account, be it fashion, design, beauty.
Let’s talk about “new” values and trends in the design world: what are and how do they influence the design and development of new products?
As I said, new values revolve around the individual and the sustainability, which means thinking about the needs and tastes of different people living in different worlds and social conditions, creating long-sellers and less disposable gadgets, regenerating things and materials, doing reasearch in order to pollute less. To which, I would add technology that makes the object “easier” and more “performing”. The development of 3D print and of the design with the help of Artificial Intelligence will give us many surprises.
Functionality and aesthetics are increasingly linked in the design of a cosmetic packaging. Is it the same in the design world in general?
Beauty and aesthetics are a global fact: from the label to the packaging and the consumer object, everything must speak the same language and not improvised. The quality and seriousness of a project can also be read from the details. I think you have to learn to recognize beauty from an early age and in small things.
How do you would define the concept of luxury applied to the world of design?
Something that makes you feel good, in a way “tailored” to you. Something that satisfies your desires, that you identify with and you fall in love with. Luxury is not the cost, it is not the precious material, it is not the exhibitionism of an exclusive piece. Luxury is the quality of thought, of design, its originality. Luxury is rather a "cultural" furniture telling a story that you love, that maybe only you love.
What are the next challenges awaiting the world of design?
I think the world of design, together with that of architecture, research, technology, sociology, agriculture, engineering, science, must work together to create a system capable of defending us from the threats that loom, including pandemics.